The key if you get hit by an extra huge wave, is to go into a ball with your knees to your chest so you don't get hurt on the ground.
Like I was at this beach in San Diego called Pacific Beach which has pretty good 4-5 foot waves, but then like a huge 8-9 footer came and I was literally spinning on the ground underwater while being pulled for like 20 something seconds.
Scary as hell but really fun.
Also, Sarge, that isn't a Pacific Mole Crab. That's a sea cicada which are found pretty much everywhere in the sand. You can eat them fried if you want.