Author Topic: The Computer Megathread  (Read 487011 times)

They probably overclocked the ram to 3000mhz

Even the RAM is liquid cooled!

That RAM isn't liquid cooled :/

So there is absolutely no way to re-install it in the event of a harddrive failure without buying another Windows 8 OEM and upgrade copy?

Not unless you buy a multiple user package.

I just looked it up and it turns out that they got rid of the full retail copies because they re-defined OEM as "System Builder for Personal Usage" and changed the license agreement as such, effectively making OEM and Full Retail the same thing.
Guess that makes it clear which version I should buy

Not unless you buy a multiple user package.
Not true. You can activate over the phone to bypass their stuffty internet activation, regardless if the hardware has had a drastic change.

Why the two separate hard drives? I got 1TB for like $80.
The Hitachi drive is for backup.

The Hitachi drive is for backup.

Axo, if you have that big of a budget, I really suggest you get an ssd, and a larger hard drive. You generally won't have to worry about backing up the ssd, because they aren't prone to mechanical failure. Even a small, 120gb is fantastic. They speed up load and boot times astronomically and are sooooo fast.

Axo, if you have that big of a budget, I really suggest you get an ssd, and a larger hard drive. You generally won't have to worry about backing up the ssd, because they aren't prone to mechanical failure. Even a small, 120gb is fantastic. They speed up load and boot times astronomically and are sooooo fast.
I'll get a 256GB SSD.

EDIT: Leaves room for some higher speed RAM (eh 1866MHz), might go with 2133MHz if GLSL Minecraft and Star Ruler are that demanding. My budget is $25k, but that is my car money! Don't worry, I am saving up about $300 or something.
« Last Edit: December 31, 2012, 03:30:06 PM by Axolotl2 »

entrepreneur  my PC: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/vbKw

Should I go with lovey MLG 2133MHz RAM or 1866MHz RAM? There's probably going to be a tiny difference but I am just curious.

Unless you are doing a serious overclock, anything over 1600 would be generally redundant. You very likely won't be able to tell the difference between a 1333 set and a 2133 set. Any by serious overclock, I mean serious overclock. 1600mhz would be fine to at least 4.5ghz.

There are so many places to save money on that computer, so many!

entrepreneur  my PC: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/vbKw

Should I go with lovey MLG 2133MHz RAM or 1866MHz RAM? There's probably going to be a tiny difference but I am just curious.
ok im going to entrepreneur  it.

please tell me you already have a 1tb HDD with that.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/vcDr
remove HDD if necessary.

use ssd for intel caching tech to make the 1 tb hdd extremely fast.
« Last Edit: December 31, 2012, 05:17:54 PM by Trymos »

There are so many places to save money on that computer, so many!
Sorry, I want my Minecraft GLSL shaders at 60fps.
ok im going to entrepreneur  it.

please tell me you already have a 1tb HDD with that.
entrepreneur  it to the point where Minecraft with GLSL shaders can run at 60FPS far distance.Oh I think I entrepreneur ed it up a little too much.
« Last Edit: December 31, 2012, 05:30:45 PM by Axolotl2 »

Sorry, I want my Minecraft GLSL shaders at 60fps.entrepreneur  it to the point where Minecraft with GLSL shaders can run at 60FPS far distance.
my amd radeon 6750 can do it on 20 fps.

if you want i can up that bitch to a 690 for a little bit more then you're already paying with the before build.

also, nice mouse choice, it feels really good and is really smooth on any surface.

my amd radeon 6750 can do it on 20 fps.

if you want i can up that bitch to a 690 for a little bit more then you're already paying with the before build.

also, nice mouse choice, it feels really good and is really smooth on any surface.
The i7 is the only one that throttles the GTX680. Other then that, thanks.