I'm not a big fan of reviews myself, but OP's argument against them is kind of stupid.
If you read a review correctly you can still get something valuable from it. If you don't care about graphics, you can just ignore the statement that says "graphics suck".
Even if you did come up with a system where each element is rated individually, it would still suck because two people could have completely different thoughts about the exact same gameplay element or graphical style. Personal taste is a lot deeper than "well I don't care about graphics but gameplay is important to me".