Author Topic: Car thread (Read 847038 times)

e-maxx · September 26, 2017, 03:40:45 PM

top tip: if you ever find yourself working on a jaguar XK inline 6 the sparkplugs are numbed back-to-front, not front-to-back like normal cars.

I learned/remembered that one the hard way

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warble · September 27, 2017, 06:35:03 PM

i haven't said anything about it here yet, but ive decided to become a service technician for a career. I'm taking the certification program at CC, and this Is my first semester of it. well my dad told me a friend of his was interested in help at his garage, I went down there today expecting to fill out an application and not hear back for a few weeks. I went in the door at 2:30 and by 2:45 I was working in the shop at my new job. apparently qualified mechanics are pretty hard to find otherwise there is no way id get hired this fast with no prior experience and no tools of my own at a rate slightly above minimum wage. I think I picked a good field

Woof · September 29, 2017, 05:50:38 PM

Guys, I have the key stuck in the ignition, can't pull it out and the truck shows no power. I.E. no lights turn on at all, not even the emergency lights. I popped the hood and the battery shows around 11v.

BlackMod · September 29, 2017, 07:09:11 PM

Quote from: Woof on September 29, 2017, 05:50:38 PM

Guys, I have the key stuck in the ignition, can't pull it out and the truck shows no power. I.E. no lights turn on at all, not even the emergency lights. I popped the hood and the battery shows around 11v.

I don't know about the key, but if your battery is at 11v, it is likely done for :'c

Woof · September 29, 2017, 07:25:35 PM

Quote from: BlackMod on September 29, 2017, 07:09:11 PM

I don't know about the key, but if your battery is at 11v, it is likely done for :'c

It's brand new, only has about 15.000km. I got it like three or four months ago. Would jumpstarting it and leaving it idle for 15' a few days recharge it back up?

Aplem · September 29, 2017, 07:39:44 PM

mmmmmm

Isjix · September 29, 2017, 11:00:42 PM

made the mistake of ordering .060 over pistons for a 302. that's asking for it, now i'm having to ship them back :(

warble · September 30, 2017, 12:10:35 AM

a pic my friend took at the autocross last weekend, I think I may need to aquire some replacement suspension components, it looks like im driving a loving Chrysler lebaron

hillkill · October 01, 2017, 04:33:20 PM

hey maybe you more mechanic-oriented people can help me.

i put new brake pads on my car. i bled the lines and everything. the brake tightens up all the way, but when you're rolling toward a stop, it's tight, but when you eventually stop, it goes to the floor. can't figure out what's going on, can anyone help?

2013 kia sorento 4cyl fwd

warble · October 02, 2017, 09:56:13 PM

Quote from: hillkill on October 01, 2017, 04:33:20 PM

hey maybe you more mechanic-oriented people can help me.

i put new brake pads on my car. i bled the lines and everything. the brake tightens up all the way, but when you're rolling toward a stop, it's tight, but when you eventually stop, it goes to the floor. can't figure out what's going on, can anyone help?

2013 kia sorento 4cyl fwd

if the pedal sinks gradually its probably a problem with your master cylinder cup seals, on a car that new though im not sure
if its an automatic, put it in drive while stopped and put on the brake lightly, does it sink and eventually start rolling or just sink and not roll? If you let the pedal up and then reapply is it hard again? if so that is your problem, you'd need to either rebuild your master cylinder (requires tools and time) or buy a new one and install it (the best option) my dad had this problem on a 1995 buick lesabre, what is basically happening is that the rubber seals in the master cylinder are letting a slow flow of fluid from the reservoir past into the pressurized chambers that work your brakes causing a gradual fadeout
it could've been caused by overstroking the pedal while the system was open for bleeding or by general wear

hillkill · October 02, 2017, 10:14:29 PM

Quote from: warble on October 02, 2017, 09:56:13 PM

if the pedal sinks gradually its probably a problem with your master cylinder cup seals, on a car that new though im not sure
if its an automatic, put it in drive while stopped and put on the brake lightly, does it sink and eventually start rolling or just sink and not roll? If you let the pedal up and then reapply is it hard again? if so that is your problem, you'd need to either rebuild your master cylinder (requires tools and time) or buy a new one and install it (the best option) my dad had this problem on a 1995 buick lesabre, what is basically happening is that the rubber seals in the master cylinder are letting a slow flow of fluid from the reservoir past into the pressurized chambers that work your brakes causing a gradual fadeout
it could've been caused by overstroking the pedal while the system was open for bleeding or by general wear

no, the brake is really tight and never touches the floor unless the stop comes from a rolling one. it does move when it's too the floor. my guess is i left a huge air bubble in by mistake.

forget it, i'm just gonna remove all the old fluid and put some new in. that way i'll know for sure there aren't any air gaps

warble · October 02, 2017, 10:40:05 PM

youll know its air in the system if you can reapply or pump the brakes and have them firm up otherwise idk

hillkill · October 02, 2017, 10:44:34 PM

i opened the bleeder valve a little and had some tubing on the end into a mason jar and had my aunt pump the gas slowly. i stopped when i saw no air coming out. confusing.

BlackMod · October 03, 2017, 10:49:15 PM

Well forget my front strut just blew :'c

Frankie� · October 03, 2017, 10:56:47 PM

you shouldnt need to bleed the brake just to change the pads

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Author Topic: Car thread (Read 847038 times)

e-maxx

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warble

Woof

BlackMod

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Aplem

Isjix

warble

hillkill

warble

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warble

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BlackMod

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